Buying a Tasar

Understanding the sail numbers

The Tasar has been built in the UK since 1976. Initially Performance Sailcraft built them and continued until mid 1980. Sail number range is 250 to 1311.

Then there was a gap until JEP Marine (Pollitt) started building them in 1986. JEP Marine built for two years and built sail numbers 2150-2167.

After JEP Marine stopped, Signal Locker imported sail numbers 2305-2309 from Australia, built by Starboard Products (Frank Bethwaite’s own company).

Kim Furniss built sail numbers 2350-2361 during 1990 and 1991.

Rondar started building Tasars in the UK with sail number 2500 in 1992 and have built up to 2524 and 2625 onwards series of boats.

Hull weights

Hull weights have varied throughout the life of the Tasar. The early PS boats started at around 130 lb. And by the time they finished in 1980 average weights were around 150 lb. (mainly through additional strengthening put into the boats). JEP and Furniss boats are also around 150 lb. as are the 25xx Rondar boats. The 26xx Rondar boats are around 140 lb. (taking advantage of newer construction methods). Because of this variation the class instituted a minimum hull weight in 1996 of 150 lb. (68 kg.). Boats lighter than this are required to carry correctors to bring them up to the 150 lb. weight.

Valuing a Tasar

Tasars have traditionally carried a high resale value with many owners selling the boat for more than they paid for it a couple of years earlier. When the first Tasar came out it cost ~£1000 in 1976. The same boat probably attracts a higher price (albeit in a devalued currency) 22 years later.

Things that affect the value of the boat are (this is not an exhaustive list) :

• Condition of the hull, and fittings (see "Areas to check").
• Number and quality of the sails. Mainsails can be expected to last up to 6 years competitive racing, much longer than most classes because of the low rig tension and being fully battened. Jibs last 2-3 years in racing condition, much the same as any other class.
• Trailer, trolley and combi. It is possible to cartop the Tasar and a number of members do this successfully. It is also possible to use a rigging board and carry the boat into the water if nearby. However most prefer to trail and launch from a trolley. A trolley that has a cradle designed for the Tasar is preferable to a generic design.
• Foils. Older Tasars (pre-Rondar boats) probably had original urethane foils. These are heavier and less profiled. Wooden foils were introduced in 1996 and this are generally lighter and better profiled. The speed difference is very low though and one muffed tack probably outweighs the foil difference over a whole race. There a couple of fibreglass foils around and they are likely to become the norm. They weigh the same as the wooden ones, are cheaper, and are profiled the same as the wood ones.
• Covers. The Tasar should be stored mast down and hence flat covers with no foredeck slit are normal. These are cheaper than boom up/mast up covers generally found in other classes. A good cover protects the hull from UV light so the quality of cover should be taken into account. If you intend trailing the boat an undercover is well worthwhile, although, at a pinch, a normal cover can be used as an undercover just for trailing.

Areas to check

Note that is very subjective and everyone has their own views. This list suggests areas that the author has seen need to look for. However any omission is the purchasers problem.

• The hull to deck join. The deck moulding (including buoyancy tanks) is glued to the hull moulding. Occasionally this gluing can come unstuck and the deck lift away from the hull. Not serious if caught before structural damage done. Check with Signal Locker on how best to fix. Although not stressed as at the gunwhale, the floor to tank join can also come unstuck. Not serious but will leak if capsized.
• Hull to daggerboard box. The hull moulding curves up for the daggerboard slot and the daggerboard box is fitted over this moulding. Enthusiastic and misdirected forcing of the daggerboard can break this apart occasionally. Minor problem but can be inconvenient. Just look down the daggerboard slot to check the case is still firmly fixed to the hull.
• Gudgeons (that take the rudder pintles). Easy to overlook and can pull the screws out check tightness. Press the top gudgeon in, if there is substantial movement in the glassfibre behind, then the transom strengthening has come away (usually by misuse) then a relatively simple repair will be needed.
• Shroud plates. Look under the gunwhale better if there is a strengthening plate there. This is where the hull takes a lot of load.
• Mast and topmast condition. People sometimes put fittings on without taking care over the electrolytic impact and cause erosion on the alloy tubes. Check how the fittings are attached.
• T-shaped thwart to sidetank join. Can take a lot of stress especially if the crew jumps into the boat via the thwart discourage this. Look for crazing around where the thwart is fastened to the sidetank.
• Whilst all this may sound negative, remember that the Tasar is unique in the longevity of the hull and gear, cheap to maintain with sails and fittings lasting far longer than most other boats, hulls remaining competitive throughout the boats life due to their inherent stiffness.
• If you have any additions or comments to make on the above please direct them to

Tasar Association UK,
64 Station Road,
Shirehampton,
Bristol,
BS11 9TY

Tel: 0117 9825168
E-mail: henmat@tesco.net
Jenny Henson-Matthews

• The above document is issued in good faith. Neither the author nor the Tasar Association UK can be held responsible for any omissions or inaccuracies.